Don’t book in for anything laser related until you’ve got some of this straight!
Since this is my absolute specialist subject, I wanted to just lay it all out and answer some of the confusion and many, many questions either I am directly asked regularly, OR that I see being asked (and answered - usually badly) on the internet. It’s a bit of a tricky topic because as the popularity of laser treatments has grown, so has the misinformation around them. Even reaching DIY territory. Have you tried Lyma ‘laser’? Or heard the hype and wished you could try it? There’s a big ‘Is It Even A Laser’ debate going on. I think maybe too much attention is being paid to the name, rather than the technology. It’s a low-level laser therapy device, but it’s clearly not designed to deliver the ablative or collagen-remodelling effects of an in-clinic laser, and so it shouldn’t be judged against those treatments. On the other hand, it’s not right to dismiss it as “just an LED mask in a wand” as lots of people have, they’re different technologies with different uses.
So because of all of this, I think lasers might have a bit of a PR problem, because there’s so many of them, and so many practitioners and different fancy names for the same machines or outcomes. Basically, we’re all getting more confused than ever, and it drives me slightly nuts.
I’ve worked with lasers for over two decades, and I now have more than 15 different laser devices in my clinic because the truth is much less dramatic than the fear-mongering or the hype.
Lasers are just tools. But REALLY clever tools. And just like you wouldn’t use a hammer to tighten a screw, you shouldn’t expect one laser to treat every skin issue (as lots of people seem to do!)
That’s why I spend so much time assessing skin before I even think about what treatment I’m going to suggest. It’s never about using ‘a laser’. It’s about choosing the right laser.
So here are seven topics of confusion I hear probably every single week, and hopefully this will help you understand them and the magic of them (in the right hands) a bit better.
Myth 1: “Laser thins your skin.”
Absolute rubbish ! If anything, the right laser does the exact opposite.
Many medical-grade lasers stimulate your skin to produce fresh collagen and elastin, which means it becomes stronger, healthier and more resilient over time, not thinner.
What people sometimes confuse with “thinning” is the shedding or resurfacing that happens after certain treatments. That’s just old, damaged skin making way for healthier skin underneath, so they’re very different things.
If I’m treating texture, acne scarring or deeper lines, for example, I might recommend Fractional Radio Frequency, because it resurfaces the skin while encouraging long-term collagen remodelling underneath. This is actually one of my favourite treatments, I’ve been using this same machine for 15 years. Amazing and super safe for darker skin tones and post-summer, as you can still tan with the technology (just no fake tan).
Myth 2: “Laser really hurts.”
Well, now this depends entirely on the laser. Not gonna lie, some are going to be a little spicy, but nothing in my clinic can actually be described as ‘painful’. Some feel warm, I guess some feel like a quick elastic band flick on your skin, but some, honestly, barely feel like anything at all.
One of my favourites, for exactly that reason, is my Aerolase Neo Elite, because it’s incredibly comfortable for most people and has amazing results without the need for recovery downtime. It has ultra-short pulse technology so it delivers energy so quickly that you don’t get that prolonged build-up of heat people often associate with older laser treatments, the ones they think of (or remember) as being painful.
Don’t let stories from ten years ago put you off today’s technology! Especially in my clinic. Things have moved on massively.
Myth 3: “Laser isn’t safe for darker skin.”
This is probably the myth I want to squash most. Again not all lasers are created equal! You’ll hear all the time that you can’t do laser on tanned skin. It depends on the laser!
Historically, some lasers carried a greater risk of treating deeper skin tones because they couldn’t distinguish safely between pigment in the skin and the concern they were trying to treat, which is why so many people had to count themselves out of laser hair reduction for example. But the tech has changed.
Again, my Aerolase can (and has) safely treated all skin tones, including darker complexions, but it has to be used appropriately by an experienced therapist. So the main thing is you don’t need to avoid ‘laser’ outright, you’ve got to just go for the right one. However, having said all of this, you absolutely have to be careful and trust the clinic/therapist performing the treatment.
Myth 4: “Laser is only for ageing.”
This one always makes me smile, ‘cos some of my youngest laser patients are in their teens. Lasers are not just hardcore midlife skin treatments all about wrinkles.
I use them for acne or post-acne scarring, I use them for rosacea, pigmentation, thread veins, sun damage, uneven skin tone, enlarged pores and dullness. None of which is reserved for middle age!
Sometimes someone comes to see me just ‘cos they want healthier-looking skin with more glow, and that is still a perfectly good reason.
In fact, some of my favourite treatments are my Neo Rejuvenation and Advanced Facial, where laser is just one part of a much bigger treatment plan alongside cleansing, lactic acid, extractions and LED.
Myth 5: “Laser causes pigmentation.”
This is another nuanced one because, if used incorrectly, any treatment can cause problems. BUT, used correctly, laser is actually one of the treatments I rely on to improve pigmentation above all else. Again, it’s all about having trust in me, or whoever you’re seeing, and them selecting the correct technology.
For melasma or sun damage, I’m incredibly careful about which laser I choose, how I use it and when I treat it, so if anyone is letting you just book in online and turn up for the treatment YOU think is best for you, I’d be wary. Consultation matters so much - I’m an expert in skin, I can understand exactly what yours needs (and sometimes more importantly, exactly what it doesn’t need!). So use me!
There is no such thing as pressing the same button on every patient. Your skin history, your skin tone and even your lifestyle all matter. This is where trust and experience really counts.
Also to add, it’s super hard to get rid of pigment permanently as what you see on the surface is superficial (which is the easy part). The damage is underlying, and harder to keep away when you re-expose it to the sun.
It can and often does come back even if you’re diligent about your SPF, it’s about getting the results and working together to maintain them.
Please don’t ignore them though, the longer you leave it untreated, the deeper and more stubborn it becomes which can result in not even being able to lift from the surface.
Myth 6: “Once you’ve had laser, you don’t need skincare.”
Haha, I wish it worked like that. Laser can create incredible changes within the skin, but your skincare helps you keep them (and none of it even matters without SPF to protect your results!) I think of laser like renovating a house before you move in, you still need to look after it afterwards, don’t you?!
Remember, daily SPF isn’t optional…
Myth 7: “One laser can treat everything.”
Definitely not. This is actually why I own so many lasers. My friends and clients sometimes ask me which laser is “the best one”, which is impossible to answer because they’re all built for completely different jobs.
One laser might be brilliant for redness. Another for acne. Another for pigmentation. Another for resurfacing etc. And even better, sometimes I combine different technologies in a single appointment because your skin rarely has just one concern if you think about it. The treatment should fit the skin, not the other way round.
If there’s one thing I’d love people to take away from this, it’s that laser isn’t one treatment, it’s an entire category of technology.
When people say, “I’ve tried laser and it didn’t work,” my first question is always:
“Yeah but which one?” Because that answer tells me almost everything. After 29 years of treating skin, I still believe lasers are some of the most exciting tools we have, but only when they’re chosen thoughtfully, used properly and tailored to the person sitting in front of me.
So all of that is never about owning the latest cool machine - I’m not interested in that. It’s actually just about knowing exactly when to use it... and when not to!
Results, with love,
Teresa x